Comments and help given

 
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  • From Fred of Thrapston on Leaking Headlamp Washer Jet - Cure

    Thanks for posting this ,followed your guide, but all my o rings were sound but when extending the telescoping part and sealing off the feed, it wouldnt pressurise,
    On removing jet assembly again I found a small plastic moulding that appeared to have dislodged from a spring carrier, guess this is the anti syphoning valve,cleaned it up added a drop of cyanacrylate popped it back in, now all working fine,
    Take care when dissassembling the Jet assembly as the part in question is only as big as a small cap from a biro and easily missed . Incidentally, mine was on a CLS320 but parts appear to be Identical.

    Kind regards FRED

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      From Steve Ball on Leaking Headlamp Washer Jet - Cure

      Thanks Fred,
      Very helpful tip of further dismantling of the washer jet, glad you got it fixed. Once you understand how they are supposed to work and of course how they are assembled, a successful repair is indeed possible.
      Thanks again
      All the best
      Steve

      • From David on Leaking Headlamp Washer Jet - Cure

        Have you opened the jet assembly? If yes can you give me an idea on how to do it because I cannot figure it out.My leak is coming from the base of the telescopic arm,seems like there is a rubber o ring which might not seating properly inside the main body.By the way mine is Porsche Cayenne but the setup is similar,thanks
        David

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          From Steve Ball on Leaking Headlamp Washer Jet - Cure

          Hi David,
          From what I remember the only removable part is the jet assembly at the front. The rear telescopic section is I think assembled all from the back and the end cap either glued or ultrasonically welded. I think you may be at a point where you can progress no further! However do just be absolutely sure it isn’t the front section that I have outlined, leaking and running back, as often the mounting angle can give a false impression in the way in which the water finds its own level and a place to eventually drip from.
          Good luck.
          All the best
          Steve

  • From Craig on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

    Hi Steve,
    I have a 315 sprinter on a 56 plate,the problem I’m having with it is the limp mode.for what seems like no reason the van went into limp mode with no engine management light showing on the dash, after turning off engine and then starting it again the van ran fine for a few minutes,then the engine warning light started flashing and it went into limp mode again,so I switch it off again and runs ok for a few minutes warning light is then on solid with no flashing and goes into limp mode again.this keeps happening every couple of weeks and then the warning light goes off and van drives fine.this has been an intermittent problem for a few months now,would be really gratefull if you can shed some light on this for me.many thanks craig

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Craig,
      I will assume that you have the NCV3 Sprinter (newer shape) Apart from the obvious turbo hose leaks there is a common EGR problem. The valve sticks open, you get black smoke from the exhaust and loose power with engine management lamp lit and limp home mode. Without a code read its impossible to tell exactly the problem you have but that would be my first ‘blind’ guess.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From Dunk Lamont on How not maintaining your Sprinter air filter can leave you stranded

    Hi Steve, Further to my first message on this topic, I have been running my van with the diagnostic code reader plugged in, and finally got the van to illuminate the engine light when really pushing up a long gradient. The code reader shows: 2359-2 “The charge pressure control is faulty, Specified value below range”

    Can you help yet again?

    Cheers

    Dunk

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      From Steve Ball on How not maintaining your Sprinter air filter can leave you stranded

      Hi Dunk,
      The code you have there is not necessarily the charge control that is faulty.

      There are 2359-1 and 2359-2, High and Low boost pressure detected against expected levels for a certain engine load. Usual culprits for this are an air filter that needs replacement or a leak somewhere on the turbo pipework. Intercooler connections, manifold or turbo snail. Just look for obvious splits and loose hose clamps. Black oil staining will be a dead give away.

      Check also the turbo actuator is moving without any stiction especially towards its maximum, you will most probably need a hand vac pump to test this properly.

      Hope this helps.
      Steve

  • From Lee on Mystery fan noise in cabin when ignition off - Vito W639

    Would this cause battery drain as I have the same noise but also have a battery drain I can’t find. Any help??

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      From Steve Ball on Mystery fan noise in cabin when ignition off - Vito W639

      Hi Lee,
      This fan does shut off after a short time, probably when the temperature in the fuse box falls below a predetermined level. It is also a very small fan and does not draw a great deal of current. Its more likely you have an interior light issue, even if there is no dome light on (passenger or cargo area) there is a chance the wiring (usually in the rear gets damaged).

      It could also be a faulty alternator – back feeding through the regulator diode pack within the alternator, taking the alternator out of circuit will prove this. You can measure current between the positive battery post and the lead with a test meter and compare before and after readings. Remove circuit fuses one by one and see if you can isolate the drain to a particular circuit, this may help pin pointing the problem.

      Remember it could just be the battery is past its best, and the immobiliser kills it overnight. Have it drop tested from fully charged by some one with the proper battery load tester (most auto electrical outlets).
      Hope this helps
      Regards
      Steve

      • From Lee on Mystery fan noise in cabin when ignition off - Vito W639

        Will try this on the weekend and get bk to you thanks.

        • From Raelene on Mystery fan noise in cabin when ignition off - Vito W639

          Hi.
          I have the same problem with my vito. The blower or fan stays on when the car is off and it drains my battery. Mercedes said it could be a relay. Still trying to find relay.

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            From Steve Ball on Mystery fan noise in cabin when ignition off - Vito W639

            Hi there Raelene,
            As I understand the small ECU cooling fan is driven directly from an output signal from the ECU, I doubt there is a relay for this specific cooling fan. I would stab a guess that the ECU is staying ‘live’ and not turning off as it should. This could be attributed to a power distribution faulty or as the dealer said a sticking relay. The constant powering of the ECU would also be more likely to drain the battery over-night than the operation of what is in essence a very small DC fan drawing a miniscule amount of current – my observation here would be to investigate reasons why the ECU may not be powering down fully – The ignition switch controlled power circuits would be my first start.
            Good luck and please let me know what you find.

            All the best
            Steve

  • From Patrick on Mercedes Sprinter NCV3 / VW Crafter (2007-) Radio Removal

    great and easy steps thank you,
    now what I am trying to do is find the antenna to replace as reception is very poor,
    however I have a box sprinter so no antenna on the roof, where will I find it?

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter NCV3 / VW Crafter (2007-) Radio Removal

      Hi Patrick,
      I am guessing the box comes over the cab and masks where the original antenna would have been fitted. (Accessed from behind the dome light)
      Have a look in the box over cab section, often the antenna is rigged inside it as if fibreglass it does not effect radio reception too badly.
      You could fit a new antenna inside the fibreglass front box or fit an antenna on the near side wing – running new cable through the bulkhead grommet behind the battery into the cab to the radio.
      Hope this helps
      Regards
      Steve

  • From Adrian c on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Hello when one of the Injectors is bad do you need to replace all 5 I have a 2004 sprinter 2500

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

      Hi Adrian,
      It all depends, you can just replace the one if the others pass a leak-down test. It may just be that your budget does not allow the replacement of all injectors. Just like spark plugs, they do have a lifespan and one failing could be an indication that all are also nearing end of life.
      I hope that helps.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From B on Mercedes Sprinter Radio Code Decoder

    Hi there helpful code guy. I have a 2006 sprinter …..last 8 are 659 680 87 the radio is an original but has a cd player (not like the picture) do you have any codes to suggest?

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Radio Code Decoder

      Hi there,
      If you can remove the radio and give me the Becker serial number from the side I stand a good chance of being able to help.
      Regards
      Steve

  • From Bill on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

    Well guys here is my personal experience.Owner of Sprinter w906 315cdi.Limp home and rpm at 3000 with no turbocharging.We take out the EGR valve and wash it very carefully with oil and unstuck the small metal spring that keep it open.I think thats an easy job to do by yourselves.Honestly i don t understand why should pass the exhaust fumes again into the air intake and specially in a such small hole with moving parts.It was a big black and sticky mess and i believe this problem it will appears again in a dozen of klms.I hope this was helpful,keep up with good work.

  • From Nick Mole on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

    Thank you Steve,
    I’m 99% sure that they’re in the correct position but I’ll double check. I’m of the same opinion as you that it’s got to be in the fusebox where the fault lies but why doesn’t a replacement solve the problem? Dodgy plugs maybe or as you suggest a damaged loom, I really hope it’s not the later!!
    I’ve looked on your fuse board and can identify some of the wires, any suggestions where I could get a wiring diagram from?

    Thanks,
    Nick.

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

      Nick,
      Don’t forget the tow bar indicator relay, even if there is no bar on now, it may have had one fitted and the module is still in existence in the rear somewhere – probably awash with corrosion and waterlogged!

      USA Manual but in many ways the same. Look at the mid pages for electrical diags etc.
      HERE – 32Mb large file so you will have to right click and ‘save target as’ to download it to your local drive.
      All the best
      Steve

      • From Nick on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

        Hi Steve,

        Success at last!!!!

        The final straw came a few weeks back when my turbo stopped working on the way back from Manchester, no boost pressure making those hills such hard work!

        So enough was enough…. headlamps out, grille off, bumper, the lot.
        Initially I thought the reason for no turbo was a faulty boost pressure actuator valve (underneath air filter) but having checked for 12v supply there was a reading of 2-3v. I traced the wiring back stripping all the insulation off and there it was…… a cluster of 5 or so wires located underneath the radiator on the near side all rubbed through on a small 8mm bolt!!!! Soldering iron out, insulation tape and many cables ties later all the electrical problems were cured!

        Thank you for all your advice Steve, I hope this helps others in the future should they experience similar problems.

        Keep up the great work.
        Best wishes,
        Nick.

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          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

          Hi Nick,

          That is fantastic news, its a great feeling when you finally discover the problem’s root cause. There is also another loom area behind the grille on the left hand side (looking in) where the horn wires come over from the main traversing loom and connect to the sounder. There should be an edge protector on the upper seam of the front cross member where the wires pass over it, but invariably this comes off at some point – result, the horn wires rub though! If you ever lose your Sprinter horn suddenly always look here first..

          All the best
          Steve

      • From Nick on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

        Well my electrical problem has raised its very ugly head again!

        It never really got sorted the first time around it just seem to right itself so I’ve carried on regardless. This time it’s come back but with twice as many problems, symptoms…. with ignition off I turn the side lights on and the instrument panel lights up like a Christmas tree, as if the ignition has been turned on, the blue main beam is constantly lit up as well as the right hand indicator arrow and also washer pump motor is buzzing away!! I’ve tried 2 different handlebar switches and 2 different fuse boards but the faults remain.
        Any ideas or can recommend an auto electrician in the North of England?

        Thanks,
        Nick.

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          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Intermittent Turn Indicator - Cure

          Hi Nick,
          Sorry that it is still playing up.

          As you have looked for broken chafed/wires in the loom under the dash, I am going now to put my money on a bad earth (brown wire) connection somewhere. MB use Brown wires to earth circuits at different points on the vehicle chassis, usually several cables meeting in one point on crimped eyelets that are bolted to a single ground point (Star earth/ground connection) If the connection to the chassis is ‘bad’ the returning voltages that should be going back to the battery via the ground connection get back fed into the other connected systems – and you get very unusual electrical goings-on.

          Start by looking at all the brown wires connected at the battery tray/inner wing area (there are a few), undo these and clean them up including the part of the body they fix to. Then look carefully at the grounds of the rear lamps and clusters, trace the brown wires back to where they connect to the chassis – infact pull off the connectors to the rear lamps and see if the fault magically goes away! (Side bet here on this being the issue, as the rear lamp clusters and holders are known for rotting! – who knows!)

          Have a look here for evidence of this issue, although in this case it is an SLK car: When the boot earth/ground/brown wire was broken to the boot lid, when the guy opened the lid, all the dash lights came on ! Sound familiar?

          http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w208-clk-class/1676223-electrical-light-problem.html

          Good luck and do let me know how you get on – any brown wire check it out, even by the headlamps either side of the lamp units on the inner wings.

          Regards
          Steve

  • From Dunk Lamont on How not maintaining your Sprinter air filter can leave you stranded

    Hi Steve, The black smoke symptoms are exactly right, and it wont pull the skin off a rice pudding! 😉

    I have also just seen your comments about some photos, yes I will, if/when I need to remove the next time. As if it happens again, I will replace EGR Valve.

    Can you send me your email address for future photos?

    Cheers

    Dunk

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on How not maintaining your Sprinter air filter can leave you stranded

      Good news Dunk.
      steve@mercedes.gen.in

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