Very helpful article. I just finshed all six injector removal, clean and new copper seal and oring on 08 GL320 CDI. I had black death on one cylinder and began to spew diesel while running. all fixed now. The thing I would like to reiterate to all is to get engine hot. It makes everything come apart easy. (I ran mine for 45minutes) That even made the fuel return line clips easy to come off by hand. I was fighting with them after 15 minutes of engine run and they were easy at 45minutes) plus the injectors come out easy by hand. I ordered the kit with 6 new return line orings, bolts and copper gaskets and job done in one day. cleaned injectors and injector seats as descibed but used a 1/4 drive extension with 200 sand paper on end, then taped, to clean copper gasket seat. again get engine hot. (torqued at 7nm plus 90 deg as specified) I changed air filters, fuel filter, and turbo inlet seals while all apart, also put in oil catch can. I suggest diesel injector line sockets from AB tools 17mm, made things easy. Thank you all for the details to make a hard job easy. Emory

After 11 years of no reverse lights they are now working thanks to you.
Much appreciated.

Hi,
My 2003 vito 110cdi is faulty again… I drove it 60 miles and after stopping tried restarting after 10 mins and it started then died then key was unresponsive for a few moments although after a few mins became responsive and started in limp mode, after 3 hrs I started again and this time limp mode gone and then drove the 60miles home with no issues and started next day no problem and drove locally although that eve just after leaving a junction it died out EDC light on and again key was unresponsive on first and second attempt although then did crank and start and drove again no issues
Then this morning key was unresponsive 1st attempt to start although then started and ran fine, I checked for any obvious wiring damage & for air in the fuel pipes to filter although I did notice when engine running a slight sucking noise at top of fuel filter although no air visible in pipes. Any ideas?
Apologies for the essay and really appreciate your advice.
Thanks very much
Regards

Hi Steve ,
I’m not sure if this page is being monitored anymore.
I have now followed your instructions in this post and I found exactly what you said it would be, the pipe was not broken right through but just hanging on by less than hairs breadth and as soon as I touched it it fell off. I made the repair as you described using the red straw from a WD 40 Can as a reinforcing connection I used a small amount of superglue on each end of the WD straw before pushing them into connections, I then left it for about an hour before using Millput Epoxy Putty to form a collar around the end of the pipe and the grey connector. again left if for about 3 hours with the sun shining on the car (nice warm environment) popped the connector back onto the actuator and all works as new, door back together.
Leaving the drying time out of the total repair and assembly period, the repair took about 2 hours.
So Steve, again many thanks for your knowledge and willingness to share with the larger community.
Great post.
Tom Harding

Incredibly helpful!!

Thank you

Hi Steve,
What a brilliantly thought out and written guide.
I have a 2002 SLK 230 Kompressor with 54 K miles genuine mile on the clock, full history and all the paperwork from new. The car has always been garaged and is in showroom condition, two lady owners from new.
I am the third owner (Had it for about 4 months) and just love this car in Lazulite Blue with Grey interior.
Recently the drivers side door refuses to lock on the key fob, it locks OK with the key, every thing else works as it is meant to.
After reading your brilliant guide to solving locking issues on the R170 I sat in the car and tried to lock and unlock the car using the Fob and listened while the pump was working and could hear a hissing sound by my right ear (Right Hand Side Drive United Kingdom).
Well I only heard this today, (Well I listened for it after reading your guide) the locking fault has only manifested itself over the last 3 or 4 days, so next job is to remove the door card, but I am as positive as one could be that your diagnosis of the fault is correct, this hissing sound it there and the pump runs for a longer period that it did before the fault appeared, so I am guessing the pump runs until it times out, but it has never stopped the car from running as it was designed to do.

So many thanks again for the excellent piece of very helpful information, I shall be ever in your debt.
Tom Harding. 2002 SLK 230 Kompressor

Changed batteries. Now the locks are locked and unlocked. Blade key will turn in the ignition and motor will turn over but won’t start and keep running. Another key and fob we have works to start the car and keep it running.

My 311cdi has two leaking injectors would this be the cause of my poor starting? It runs great but struggles to start

Hi, you have an exceptionally cool site and thanks for the detailed information you provide.
I’m driving a 2005 CDI313 Sprinter 2.2 engine. I wanted to ask if buying the diagnostic computer (around 90-300 Euro http://www.ebay.de/itm/172773717339) for this model can help detecting problems in the turbo charge performance?
I would really keen to hear your advice.
Thanks

HI Steve im getting a fault code p0193 fuel rail pressure circuit high input(bank1) the engine light is on i have replaced the fuel sensor and the regulator can you please give some advise
Thanks