Hi, I need to adjust the vane actuator arm on my 2006 115 (long story, but was sticking as per yours). How do you know how long it should be? I have mine so that when the engine is off, the rod is fully extended without any tension on the arm. Should it be shorter?

Display Backlighting

In fact I agree with Steve, I have been doing tests and realized reparation on circuit board powers of the LEDs.

I haven’t checked it yet but this must definitely be the problem with my van! It started with shutting off when I engaged reverse, then it started doing it with when pressing the brake, then the indicators, and today even the wipers! This has to be what’s causing it!
I’ve been driving without rear lights for weeks now because of it but it all might change tomorrow!
I don’t know how to thank you but I want you to know that people like you are rare and you deserve everything good for your life for being so nice to help others like this!
You sir, are a hero! I wish you a very happy life!

very frustrating trying to drill out a spinning bolt alright. will get back to trying to figure this out tomorrow

Panic over. Roof off and it’s easy to get your fingers around the screen rail to apply pressure with your thumbs. 👍

Hi I’ve followed this ‘how to’ as with all your guides it’s spot on. However I’m struggling on refitting the mirror. The nipples move freely although the spring is pretty strong, I’ve greased both nipples and fitting, but I’m struggling on applying enough force for it to engage.

I was wondering if you have a technique or knack that I’m missing?

Correction! Me again! In removing my strut mount again, to check whether my Bilstein top mounts were snagging with the OEM strut cap on full compression, as has been suggested (mine ok but a quad nut on top of the damper not a hex, so maybe different damper on the 300-24?) I realised that I must have put my wooden chocks under one/both the suspension arms to stop drop, as without them if you do undo the threaded nut on one side it does drop more than the one centimetre, as I proposed above! (About 7cm, so the thread, inconveniently, drops below the cap top!). Sorry for the misinformation. Still good to raise both wheels off the ground though, as it gives maximum room to remove the strut mount without the anti-roll bar compressing the damper from the opposing wheel, and useful to remove the road wheel too, as easier to manipulate the strut in and out of the top mount.

The rubber top spring seat comes in four thicknesses, from 8mm in 5mm graduations, demarcated by 1 – 4 small rubber tangs on the seat rim. The ride height can be altered by changing these. NB. By changing to a seat 5mm thicker or thinner , for example, it raises or lowers the ride height by several times this amount, as the wheel is 3 – 4 (?) times the distance from the fulcrum of pivot than the spring!

When doing this I found it useful to jack the front of car completely off the ground and use axle stands on the mounting points under the car by the front jacking points. This allows both wheels to drop the suspension as low as it can go, improving access under the wings. One mount can then be removed without further ado, as the anti roll / sway bar and the other shock mount will prevent the loosened shock mount side of the suspension dropping more than a centimetre (not enough for the strut thread to drop below the strut mount hole.). This all makes: removing the old strut mount, replacing the new strut mount, and the replacement of the bump stop and dust cover (if the latter two are necessary) very easy indeed. CAUTION : with both front wheels jacked off the ground do not attempt to remove both strut mounts at once, as there will then be nothing holding the front suspension assembly in the air! (Unless you support at least one side of the suspension with a jack).

Did mine last week prior to viewing this. Excellent explanations, photos and descriptions. Nb. My Bilstein replacement springs had an extra half turn on the coil which meant that there was snagging at the top with the compressor plate on the cup mount when the plate was placed according to my photos of the plates positions on the old springs. Not a problem, but had to recompress the spring with the top plate slightly differently placed to avoid snagging.