Worth mentioning that when tightening back the new oil cooler, the bolts don’t need to be super tight because your screwing into aluminum. I recently did this and easily stripped 2 bolt holes like an idiot. I wish I had known I was screwing into aluminum

Great explanation, does this apply to the 518 as well?
Thank you

Hi Steve

I have a 2005 sprinter 311. The temp gauge just dropped down to zero then it jump back up and down. I have changed the temperature sensor and the thermostat and still the same problem. Do you think the fuse box can be my problem?

Thanks

This is awesome Steve, thank you. I’m hoping it’s the source of my intermittent starting issues and occasional stalling while enroute in 2005 T1N. Do you have any suggestions for means of cleaning everything? Vinegar? Brass wheel on Dremel tool? Very much appreciated.

Thankyou most helpful 😀

Best write up on this system I have ever seen. Even Mercedes service information is not this informative and put down in such a matter of fact, understandable way. I have repaired multiple S Class W220 sec air sys problems where the pump replacement and relay have done the job. But this last time everything seemed to work and still had p0410 coming back. Found that orange maxi fuse blown. Never had a problem with that on other cars so never even knew to check it. Problem solved thanks to you.

2005 sprinter 5 cyl.
New fuel rail.
New intank fuel pump.
Still no power.
Will not pass 3000 rpms.
Code reads 2021-1 (rail press is too low)

Kind thanks Steve for sharing your knowledge and time, please know it’s much appreciated! I love learning about these T1N’s as one never knows when you can help another or yourself when they have issues. Also please know, by sharing the steps you go through to diagnose is also very much appreciated! These vehicles are much different than anything I’ve worked on in the past and to say ‘intimidating’ would be an understatement.

Thanks again!

Hi, Thank you for the great information.

I have a 1999 sprinter and recently had the rear pads rotor and handbrake shoes replaced. My question is after driving a few miles the rear wheels are quite hot compared the front wheels, is this normal?

After 2 years of intermittent limp home turbo on my ’52 311, found a dodgy earth to the alternator to be the culprit. Ran additional earth wire to battery from alternator body and cleaned all earth contacts. 2 months now been fine.