Hi there,

Just wondering how the turbo core is working now? Is it still okay? If so,
how many miles/kms does it have on now?
Cheers imi

Thanks for this – I was a bit daunted by the thought of diagnosing intermittent reversing lights (MOT failure item in 2019) until I found your helpful guide. I reckon it took about 30 minutes to follow your instructions, and in my case, the switch just needed working through its full travel a few times once apart, presumably to clean the contacts a little. Easy (and free, for me at least!!) fix.

Thanks for the info!

My W208 CLK 230 sat for a couple of weeks, and now im using it again everytime i lock it – the alarm comes on (no flashing lights just the alarm sounding) & will sound 3/4 times over then stop.

Had a couple of times it went off randomly prior to the 2 week sit, so Im thinking this is the issue with mine! Well i hope it is as Ive just spent £104 on a new alarm and its non refundable at Mercedes (b*****ds!) Hopefully this will be the fix! Alarm going off everytime its locked is annoying and embarassing!

Hoping that by removing the access panel between the bumper and arch lining will be enough access so i dont have to remove wheel and arch lining etc. Also hoping to replace fog light at the same time – hopefully that isnt to big of a job!!

Wish me luck and thanks for the advice

Great explanation of how the turbo on my sprinter works. The only sensor that was not mentioned
is the one that is on the intake side of the turbo near the air cleaner and inline in the tube of the engine breather tube. How do I test this sensor? While I’ve checked all my vacuum hoses and the operation of my vacuum control valve the vehicle starts off fine and then goes into turbo limp mode. I can turn the vehicle off and restart and it gets away fine again for a short while. The intermittent nature of this fault is making it difficult to diagnose. I’ll try changing the vacuum control valve and perhaps the vacuum actuator as they are relatively inexpensive. Do you have any other thoughts?

Based on your excellent article I bought an ISO to female 3.5mm cable on ebay for $7 then in half an hour had the job done in my 2007 W639 with basic Sound 5 system. Thanks for your time and effort to publish this and other technical references. Beats me why Mercedes didn’t do this themselves – why leave a radio function unusable for the sake of a short, inexpensive cable that is so much easier to pre-install. Anyway, job done.

hi Steve,
We have the opposite problem. The heater is stuck on. Can you put a simple on/off valve on the water supply side to the Heat Exchanger. This would be quite sufficient for us as we live in a warm climate.
If yes, which is the supply pipe and where should I put the valve?
Many thanks and have a good day

Hi Steve
Just wanted to let you know that You are a legend.
Changed gearbox oil on my 2013 113cdi 6 speed Vito to atf-u. 1st to 2nd gear change is smoooooth!! And all the rest of them as well. Also had difficulty getting it in to 1st but gear knob bushing sorted that. Feels like brand new van.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Martins

I am having trouble getting the coils for my R129. Is there anywhere i can get the part nos from.

Regards
Trevor

Hi everybody, I just succeeded , following advises up here, wired AUX on my sound 5 CD radio in my Mercedes b class W245. Thanks for advises.
At this point I have another idea-possibly to replace existing sound 5 radio with new 7” radio set (touch screen, GPS,….) as now a days cars have. There is large offer on web but problem I am facing is dash configuration, not possible to mount such set, different dash configuration should be mounted. I think B class w245 with sound 20 has such dash.
Has somebody advise where such dash can be found or any experience with .
Many thanks

Do you think it is possible for a faulty LCD to kill all instruments in the cluster?

Our LCD dimmed over a few years and now the whole cluster is dead (no gauges work at all)

Thoughts?

DC