Comments and help given

 
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  • From Bill Stewart on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    Can you tell me is the clutch hydrolic or cable operated on a 2008 Vito & how do you adjust it?

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      From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

      Hi Bill,
      The clutch operation on the 2008 Vito (W639) is hydraulic and self adjusting. The Master cylinder shares the same fluid reservoir as the brake circuit so no separate fluid reserve. The master cylinder is a plastic affair see here This lives above the clutch pedal, this then feeds a rigid pipe that descends to the slave cylinder. The salve cylinder is a concentric type that lives inside the gearbox. The input shaft of the gearbox passes through the centre bore of the cylinder and the unit itself is unable to be replaced unless the engine-gearbox is split See picture. The clutch is none adjustable, however if air gets into the system its virtually impossible to bleed the circuit by normal means. Reverse bleeding is the only sure way to carry this out. Use a Gunsons EZeeBleed pressure bleeder to force fluid from the bleed nipple on the gearbox (slave cylinder) back through the system up into the master cylinder reserve. Its common for the clutch pedal to stick in a down position if there is a quantity of air in the circuit.
      I hope this helps.

      All the best
      Steve

  • From stefan on Mercedes Sprinter Heater Blower Motor Brush Replacement

    Thanks so much for sharing this!!!! It worked for me perfectly i didnt replace the carbon contacts yet but just sanded the surfaces.

  • From Jay on Diesel Mercedes Sprinter Turbo Rebuild

    Where do I buy replacement parts , I need the vanes as in picture 8

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      From Steve Ball on Diesel Mercedes Sprinter Turbo Rebuild

      Hi Jay,
      Give these people a call, make sure you quote the full long part number on your turbo body. Prices start from about £150.00 plus shipping.
      Good quality parts at the some of the best pricing.

      Rapid Turbo’s
      North Yorkshire
      Phone:07527|776564 Email:rapidturbos@live.co.uk

  • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

    Excellent article. Having problems with my MB Sprinter and I need to know how things work before starting trouble shooting. The engine will not rev and the turbo actuator does not move at all, so the boost valve or the clutch pedal may be where the problem is..

    Thanks again.

    Paul

    • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Steve
      Latest and hopefully final update.

      Long story but it may help others like me struggling to sort out their problems.

      I took your advice and eventually took the Sprinter to my mates who run a diesel repair business in the village.
      Left it with them but mentioned that I only wanted them to spend a couple of hours on it before it went to the scrap yard.
      I had got the new boost valve and foot brake switch from them so they knew they had been replaced. I had also taken the wiring from the front of the radiator and stripped all the covers off so that they could see if that was damaged.
      After altering a few earth points on the harness the cables now run over the top of the radiator in flexible conduit so that we can see if there are any problems. The boost valve is now fastened to a bracket over the top of the air filter housing along with the ball reservoir.
      Everything is now easy to see and work on :-))

      So my mates at the repair shop said it’s ‘the turbo’. No fault codes.
      They had checked back pressure in the exhaust system and no faults there, but no turbo pressure. They knew I would investigate further myself so they let me take over and strip down the turbo, again!
      Before I did that and on the way home I stopped at another mechanic I know and said ‘drive it and let me know’ After a short drive ‘it’s the turbo’

      So I stripped it down. As I checked the vane control ring it seemed to stick in one or two points. Not all the time but every 5 or 6 turns of the ring.
      So I stripped down the VG block and there I noticed that some of the vanes had the very slightest damage on their trailing edges, where I presume the old spindle, as it wobbled around, caught the ends of the vanes.
      15 minutes later and very careful use of a file and emery cloth and the vanes seem to run more smoothly in the block.
      Everything was carefully re-assembled and checked for vane movement and I think ‘hey presto’ it may be working.
      So a few morals of this story for me. If I repair a turbo check,check,check for every possible damage deep in the guts of the unit. If I had done that 18 months ago I would have saved a lot of heart ache.
      I’m not bothered about the new bits I bought that were not really needed. I’m hoping that the van runs for a few more years without any major problems but if not then I know it’s not the boost valve or foot switch.
      So now the final questions Steve.
      I’ve taken it for a short run down the country road. Need to put some diesel in it before I go far.
      Acceleration is not brilliant until I get to about 10 mph and then I get a surge of power, and then as I gain speed a second surge develops and the van really starts to fly. Is this as it should be?
      Secondly I was going to risk going on the motorway to test it out and give it a good run to ‘clear it out’. The back doors are covered in a black smoke film from the exhaust over the last year! Despite constant cleaning.
      Should I add anything to the fuel for this run as I have seen in advice for other posts?
      Many thanks for your help, advice and time Steve and please keep up the good work.
      Singing the vans praises may come in a week or two!

      Paul

      • Avatar photo

        From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Hi Paul,
        Its up to you but you can adjust the lower point at which useful boost starts, this is done by shortening/lengthening the adjuster on the boost actuator arm. See my post – ‘new turbo, still no boost’. You may decide its not worth it as to have useable boost without tripping over or under boost conditions is a good place to be. If you do decide to tinker then only turn the adjuster on the rod one turn at a time and remember where you are so it can be put back.
        A good result all round really, just think what you have learned. It seems on par with most local mechanics!

        You can fit a new vane block if you wished. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Turbocharger-VNT-Nozzle-Ring-Honda-Accord-Civic-2-2-i-CTDi-/330895490321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3ASprinter&hash=item4d0ae87d11

        I would not bother adding anything to the fuel, spatter on the back doors is normal until the soot is cleared. (its a pig to remove, as you have or will discover washing wont shift it! T-Cut or car polish is about the best at the job)

        All the best
        Steve

        • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          Hi Steve
          I may have added my latest update in the wrong place. It’s now at the top of my list, by the first post.
          Sorry.
          Paul

    • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi again Steve,
      Well it’s been a year since I first posted and because I’ve been unable to find your site again and also being so busy, the old sprinter is still ‘chugging away. Motorways are really no go areas as the slightest incline brings me to less than 30mph and HGV’s fly past wondering what I’m doing.
      So A roads are my only choice at the moment.
      An update. I took your advise Steve and checked the vac to the turbo actuator and there is vac at the pipe from the solenoid pipe. When I connect up to the turbo the lever on the turbo moves down by about 20mm. Engine on tick over.
      Driving the van does produce a bit of power from time to time but it is far from ‘a train’ as others claim. I drove a similar sprinter up to Scotland last week and apart from a leaking water pump it went like a rocket.
      So I am going to replace the solenoid valve with another, take out and clean the ‘inter cooler’ and check for leaks in the pipework to the inlet manifold.
      Now I;m back on your excellent site I will check on others turbo problems and let you know if I make any progress.
      Regards Paul

      • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Hi again Steve. Bit late but Happy New Year.

        Still struggling on with my Sprinter turbo.
        Not sure whether I should have done this but getting desperate now. I connected a large LED light across the wires to the actuator valve (in parallel).

        The LED is on all the time but when the turbo kicks in the LED is dim and when the turbo is ‘off’ the light is bright.
        I assume that the LED goes dim as the valve drains the power as it triggers the turbo. The turbo really makes the difference when the LED is dim i.e. runs well, but the turbo seems to be random on its working, its on and off state.

        Are there any sensors that I should check that are giving this random situation? As the light is on (bright or dim) all the time I guess the wiring to the valve is O.K. ( no breaks).and when the LED is dim the turbo is working and the van is fine.
        There seems to be no logic as to when the turbo works, under acceleration or driving almost on cruise the turbo works randomly.

        Not giving up yet, but close to it. I’m afraid with my problem and others with similar faults on these pages I think this will be my first and last Sprinter 🙂

        Regards and thanks
        Paul

        • Avatar photo

          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          Hi Paul,
          What you have to remember is people only write more bad than good on anything ! Take a look at the Ford Transit forums with their EGR valve issues and Limp Home, Look at the VW forum and others and you will get the idea.. so everything is the same everywhere! If you want ultimate reliability maybe buy a Toyota Power Van, ironically it is a very little power-van, no performance, no load capacity, in my opinion no style (but who am I to judge). Now I have upset all Toyota owners, lets look at where you are.

          If you have a light that is dim when all is well across the coil and the coil is conducting – this then goes bright and the turbo fails to operate – doesn’t this indicate maybe the coil in the valve is intermittent? If the voltage source was disappearing, then the LED would extinguish all together – not go bright. Going bright seems to be an indication of no coil load. Is this a faulty valve I wonder?

          Do you see my logic?

          Never used an LED like this and not sure what effect it will have on the control circuit, but assuming it doesn’t, then the surely the above applies.

          What do you think?

          All the best
          Steve

          • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Steve
            Well the new brake switch is on but still no power. Had to come back on the motorway tonight and could only do 25mph climbing the hill on the slip road to get on. It was frightening to say the least. Can’t go on like this.
            The power still seems to be intermittent. I can be driving along with little response from the throttle and then the turbo will kick in and a bit more power is available but it will still not rev above 2000-2300 revs.
            I can turn at traffic lights and the turbo works for a second and the van is lively but it does not last and again it will not rev.
            That time, a couple of days ago, when the engine revved at over 4000 it seemed like the brake switch would sort it but unfortunately no.
            Rapidly loosing faith in the van. New turbo cartridge, new boost valve, new brake switch, and I can understand the logic in the working of them with the ecu but there’s still an intermittent fault somewhere.

            What about the clutch switch? Did you say in other posts that this switch limits the revs?
            Had a look at the wiring down by the intercooler but it all looks good and the ecu unit and wiring appears dry so, still wondering what it can be. The LED light still shows bright until the turbo works and then it goes dim and the roar from the turbo can be heard and the power is there but no high revs. Thinking of fitting a camera to show the turbo working as the engine is driven, and seeing the movement with speed and power.
            Thanks again

            Paul

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Paul,
            Not sure how you feel about this but I think its time to either invest in a compatible code reader or entrust it to someone with access to one! Parts darts gets expensive as you have found. You need to know exactly what the faults are and to be able to access live data and see exactly what is going on. The clutch switch works in conjunction with the brake switch to tell the ECU what is going on. If faulty it will have an effect on the maximum revs and limp home.
            Lets stop guessing and start being smart with our diagnostics, you have pretty much done all you can by swap outs, it could even be fuel delivery pressure but you cant see that one!
            All the best
            Steve

          • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi again Steve.
            Forgot to add that as I was messing with the brake switch I noticed someone had placed a cable tie over the brake pedal top lever, where it actuates the brake light switch.

            This cable tie I presumed was put in place because the pedal was not pushing the switch pin in far enough to operate something. Turbo or brake light switch, who knows.

            I am hoping that this ‘repair’ could be to fix a faulty switch and that a new one may be the answer.

            Cheers
            Paul

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Paul. Sounds like you have found it. The clutch switch has to work as designed too – for example if you take it off, the vehicle will no longer rev over 3200-3500. It needs to be in circuit and needs to be working. Sounds promising so far and a very common problem as the contact set used for ecu feedback are very delicate in comparison the ones used to put the brake lights on – even though they are in the same switch case moulding.
            All the best
            Steve

          • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi again Steve.
            Update.
            Still having to use the van but dread going anywhere because of it’s lack of power. Had to climb a steep hill coming back from Wigan last week and thought I would never make it up this hill when all of a sudden WOW the power came in and off she went like a rocket!
            I guessed that meant that all was well with hoses and actuators it must be the boost valve or the sensors.
            So I ordered a new boost valve and fitted it but no luck. As bad as ever.
            So I tried the brake switch and messed with it in place, pulling the white pin out and pushing it in with my finger in and out with some WD40 sprayed on it.
            4500 revs at stand still. Never done that before. But that was short lived and as I drove away it was no different.
            So a new switch has been ordered and when it is fitted I will let you know whether the problem has been solved. Fitting on Monday if it has arrived from the dealers.

            If the switch is the answer I will tell you how the LED light works when all is well, it may help others identify where the fault lies.
            One other thing Steve, how important to the triggering of the turbo is the clutch switch and can this be over ridden to eliminate that as the source of the fault?

            Thanks for all your help. Fingers crossed again.

          • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Steve
            Yes I agree with your comments about Transits and Sprinters, few people go online to say how good their vans are, just the ones, like me, who have problems.

            Well I’m trying to see the logic, both you’re and mine. I swapped the valve for one that I was told to be good but still no turbo. The van has been working better today but still intermittent. It does seem to kick in the turbo more when it has warmed up a bit.

            I think I’m going to have to get someone to look at it and see what they think. I have a friend who runs a diesel repair garage. If I get somewhere with them I’ll let you know how I get on. Thanks for all your help and if I can get this Sprinter running as it should do I will sing its praises.

            Regards

            Paul

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Furthermore Paul,
            let us know each step of the way – so myself others may benefit from the information you come across getting this sorted.
            All the best
            Steve

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Paul,
      First off, pull off the vac hose to the turbo actuator with the engine running and see if there is any vac pulling. If not – next measure the voltage at the terminals of the boost valve, if absolutely nothing, check wiring in front of rad/intercooler. If volts exist, suspect boost valve fault. Good luck and do let me know how to get on.
      Regards
      Steve

      • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Hi again Steve
        Success was rather short lived!
        Took it for a run and it seemed O.K. to start with but then it was back to normal….poor.
        Stopped and lifted the bonnet, The actuator seemed to be stuck. Moved it around a bit with pliers and then whoossh off we went again…like a rocket, the repair guy did say he thought the return spring on the actuator was a bit weak but that was not stopping it going to boost and as we know now, it was the vanes. Someone has suggested grease on the end of the rod/pin to help the action. I’ll use your link above and see if I can get a new actuator and hope that is the final bit to buy. Must admit when it did work it was great to drive and my heart lifted when I realised I could use the motorway again without fearing for my life!

        Almost there.
        Paul

        • Avatar photo

          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          Hi Paul,
          If you undo the two 8mm nuts on the vac actuator (can be done in situ but its a fiddle) and then remove it wholesale. You can work on the shaft as it enters inside the diaphragm housing with WD40. Being able to move it through an extended range and wiggle it often frees off the arm. As long as the diaphragm holds vac all should be recoverable. (Squirt a small spritz inside through the spigot too – shh.. don’t tell the nay-sayers, they will say it will have an effect on the diaphragm material. In truth I don’t know if this achieves anything but I have never known one fail, its always caked in oil and is exposed to pretty extreme temperatures, make up your own mind on that one)
          Almost there.. (As one guy said on a Mercedes forum somewhere and it always sticks in my mind – ‘You’re on the pigs back now, you just have to ride it out..’)
          All the best
          Steve

          • From Paul Vinson on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi again Steve,
            Well this could be the last lap. Took the van out this morning with the idea of risking it on the motorway. A mile down the road and its in limp mode again.
            The actuator lever is stuck again. I wondered if the vac pipe had a blockage in it as water may have got into the vacuum diaphragm as I pressure washed it before I took it apart.
            No, the pipe is clear so it can only be the actuator sticking in some way.
            So a quick mod, as I’m miles behind with work playing :=)) with this van.
            I rummage in the back of the van and I find a short bungee rope with wire hooks on the ends.
            So, one end on the turbo lever pin, a small detour round the clutch feed pipe ( to keep the line straight) and then it’s looped around and .clipped to the window wiper mounting bracket.
            We now set off and everything works! 50 mile round trip with motorways and some ‘A’ roads with very very steep hills lasting nearly a mile. No problem. I might even say a pleasure to drive. The mod will stay on until I catch up on work and then either a tidier mod or a new actuator.
            Well I got on this ‘pig ‘of a van and against what all people say ‘pigs can fly’
            My first van with a ‘turbo’ and it started as a real mystery but the mystery has all gone now and although I’m no expert, it all makes sense now and I’ve learned a lot thanks to your website and the people who bring you their problems..
            Many thanks Steve.

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Paul,
            Interesting fix – but I think it pretty much stamps approval on that being the final issue. Lets hope so.
            All the best
            Regards Steve

  • From martin on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    Changed gearbox oil for UTF-U and this has made a dramatic difference for the better.
    Thank you, it’s now a joy to drive.

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

      Hi Martin,
      Pleased it improved things for you. Thanks for the feedback!
      All the best
      Steve

  • From Jules on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    Useful info!

    My sound 5 display is illuminated but utterly blank- are there any known settings to re-activate the display?

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

      Hi Jules,
      There is couple of things worth checking out, if your vehicle has the Ipod connect kit (as factory Standard) disconnect this at the head unit end and try the radio again as it has been reported that issues with this can cause the blank display.

      There is a chance that that the radio just needs a hard reboot ! You will need to disconnect the power multiconnector at the rear, wait a few seconds then reconnect. Again this has been reported as a solution to the blank screen.

      Lastly I suppose it could be a faulty display, this can only be really checked out by a Car Radio repair centre where they will test it for you. Remember if you do get a used replacement radio from ebay to replace it do make sure that it is ‘code free’ or you will have wasted your money !

      Let me know how you get on.

      All the Best Steve

  • From Mark Colgan on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    OK, more driving, still no better, I read about cable adjustment everywhere, not nowhere do I see a guide, any tips?

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      From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

      Hi Mark,
      I have all the gear cable alignment data at home I will post it up for you after 6.00pm today. Sorry there is no difference in your case, must be some other issue. If you saved the gear oil you took out, you can always put it back in as you say there was no brass, which is a good sign at least.!
      All the best
      Steve

      • Avatar photo

        From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

        Hi Mark,
        As promised here you will find all the data you need to install and adjust the gear selector cables correctly on the W639 Vito. You will also notice the W638 data is listed there also if you or anyone else should need it. Click here http://tinyurl.com/o5pbvox
        All the best
        Steve

        • From Mark Colgan on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

          Thanks Steve

          24 hours later, the second gear crunch on up shift is still there, unless I change very slowly or do a little wiggle back towards 1st and down, but the rest of the box does feel smoother, so all was not lost at all.

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

            Hi Mark, Sounds like synchro wear. Try letting the revs die down while dipping the clutch (foot fully off throttle, and not back on the power until fully engaged into second) Almost add a ‘small pause’ into the neutral part of the gear shift.
            All the best
            Steve

  • From Mark Colgan on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    I’ve just done this change, and am about to take it for a drive, fingers crossed.

  • From Dabob on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    Hi, can you give any further info on the ‘AMP out’ function. I assume if it’s switch to ‘on’ then this enables a pre amp out on the back of the unit ? If i’m correct do you know which pins I would use to utilise the feature ?

    Thanks, keep up the good work.

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

      Hi there,
      Here is some information regarding the pin outs of the ISO audio connector, I am sure it will help you out.
      Mercedes ISO Connection Detail
      All the best
      Steve

  • From Will Fleming on Mercedes Sprinter Heater Blower Motor Brush Replacement

    B Class Mercedes.

    B180 Diesel, Manual. 2007.

    Heater blower has stopped working on 1,2,3 and 4.

    Will ONLY work on 5/Max.

    Air Con recently repaired. Worked fine for about 3 weeks.

    Any ideas??

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Heater Blower Motor Brush Replacement

      Hi Will,
      The chances are that the blower motor speed control resistor module is faulty, its been previously reported as occuring on this model. Have a read here – I am sure it will help you out. There is the outside chance that some wiring had been disturbed or poorly reconnected during the recent work done to the AC. Well worth a full check out before you cast all your doubts on the resisteor module itself.
      All the best
      Steve

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