Comments and help given

 
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  • From Chris on Mercedes C Class W203 - Dim Multi-Function Instrument Display (MFD) - LCD Panel Replacement

    Hi there,

    Thanks a lot for these instructions. I have followed the links to the aftermarket suppliers and they seem to have the replacement parts for every Merc except the C203. BUT they quote the E and C class in general. I have E Mailed them regarding the W203 C204 model I have but have not received a reply yet.
    Do you know if the unit quoted on their site (C Class) will fit the W203 instrument cluster? I’m from Australia.

    Kind regards
    Chris

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes C Class W203 - Dim Multi-Function Instrument Display (MFD) - LCD Panel Replacement

      Hi Chris,
      You may be able to get a good instrument cluster from a breaker – that is another option, then switch the displays yourself. Ebay could be the route with that method. You would have to be doubly sure what you were looking at from the display guys would fit, as it would be just throwing money away if it were not 100 per cent compatible. Wait and see what they say, send them a photograph of the cluster (ignition on) if you need to.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From Grant Johnston on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

    The other day a wire shorten under the dashboard behind the glove box. It looks like I have to take the dashboard out to get at the wires that go through the fire wall.

    Looking at the dash it is one lump any pointers on how to remove it. Even the glove box is moulded into it.

    • From Joel on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

      would this wiring issue keep the car from starting?

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        From Steve Ball on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

        Hi Joel
        Not at all, there must be some other issue.
        Regards
        Steve

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

      Hi Grant.
      Hope you are well.
      Just remind me what model/type and year we are talking here.
      All the best
      Steve

      • From Grant Johnston on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

        Hi Steve

        Sorry yes, its a 2008 Vito 109 CDI.

        Hope all is well with you.

        Grant

        • Avatar photo

          From Steve Ball on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

          Hi Grant,
          The fuse box under the hood connects through the bulkhead to the wiring loom, there is a chance the wire is damaged in the fuse box (it may have even taken a fuse out in here) Most of the power distribution is done here check the wires to the rear of the connection/distribution fuse and relay board. Grab a torch and have a good look – and smell around and see if you can spot anything.

          The dash is in 2 halves the upper and lower, just as you say the glove box is moulded into the lower half. There is restricted access under the dash by the hood release, under the plastic under dash cover, but if you have AC expect this to be a little more crowded. As you suggest it is quite a large job to remove the dash and I would need to be 100 per cent that’s where my problem lay before venturing forward. Have a good look in the huge fuse box in the engine compartment to be double sure it cant be put right from in there. I have searched high and low and cannot find even a parts explosion of the dash to assist you in how in all comes apart.
          All the best
          Steve

          • From Grant on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

            Hi Steve

            I got a local auto electrician to come over and he spent most of the day fixing the loom, without taking out the dashboard.

            The fault was a worn wire just behind the light switch on the far right of the dashboard. The loom passes between two metal plates that support the steering column and they had worn through one of the power wires going to the instrument cluster. This resulted in a hot wire between the fuse board and this point which in turn melted a few critical wires around it before the fuse blew.

            The fuse box is actually quite spacious and enabled us to unplug the loom from the back of the fuse board, cut about 10 cable ties behind the dash and pull the loom back to the centre space behind the radio. Replace the wires and re-wrap the loom and refix it.

            Alas we didnt have time to fix the loom behind the steering column so this is going to be done this Sunday. We also still have the brake lights on all the time.

            Update to follow.

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

            Hi Grant,
            Be interested to know exactly what part of the loom wore through, I thought most of that under there was cloth wrapped and in some cases even foam jacketed. Was the wiring disturbed or had its routing been disturbed, ties cut etc. Sounds like it should be noted as a weakness if its as it left the factory.
            All the best
            Steve

          • From Grant on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

            Dear Steve

            Apologies for the delay in replying but we have just managed to track down all the errors and fix the van this afternoon after 3 days solid.

            The initial fault was a small fire under the dashboard which filled the cabin full of smoke. The van was drivable, but the brake lights were always on ans it blew a 7.5amp fuse in the bottom left of the fuse board.

            In short, I called an auto electrician (Brian Dolan) who works in West London and we both proceeded to remove as much of the ancillary items from the dashboard as we could including the floor liner.

            The cause: We think the main short was on a sub loom that goes to the instrument cluster back to the 28 pin connector on the fuse board. The cable appears to be as factory fitted and it wore through the insulation on the steering column support. The wire was blue / black and it shorted to Ground which burnt all the insulation off this wire right back to the fuse board before the 7.5 amp fuse blew. Two other wires in the same loom were melted to this wire so we ended up replacing three wires by disconnecting the multi way connectors from the fuse board for this loom and pulling them back through the bulkhead to the radio hole. (This sounds hard but the back of the fuse board is big enough to get your hand through) We then pulled the 2nd part of the same loom from which feeds the ignition, lights and instrument cluster through towards the right of the van so we could fix the length that runs from the radio hole and behind the instrument cluster.

            We picking the whole loom apart, replaced any burnt wires and re-wrapped it in a fabric wire tape. Make sure you re cable tie it back in place to stop it happening again, this isn’t easy but worth doing!!! Also get some auto fabric wire wrap tape to protect the loom!!!

            The next fault that was either connected or had occurred some time before. We found more burnt wires from the brake pedal switch back to the fuse board. These wire go from the brake pedal switch, behind the clutch pedal, over the central drive tunnel and into a plastic protective channel that goes round the passenger foot well and up behind the glove box and through into the fuse board. This fault was causing all three brake lights to be always on.

            These wires were burnt every so often and we couldn’t see one place where a short had occurred, it seems as if they just got too hot in places. Two wires were mainly burnt (the ones going to the brake pedal switch) so we ended up replacing these wires from the brake pedal switch back to the fuse board. These wires went to a 6 way (I think, I was getting tired by then!) in-line connector that was also on the fuse board.

            All in all the van is now fixed, but we cant say if the two wiring issues are related or one occurred before the other. My gut feel is they are linked but we cant see an obvious explanation.

            The electrician had access to Autodata so we could see the wiring schematics which really helped to make sure no random control units were in play half way along a loom. In this case the W639 seems to be controlled by a SAM unit attached to the fuse board that doesn’t need programming and seems to be standard on all models of Vito however all lights, brakes etc go through this unit.

            Regards

            Grant

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes SRS Fault - Fix

            Hi Grant,
            I may document this in a post as to be honest if those wires can wear through the problems you have had can be avoided with a little extra insulation at the accessible end! Thanks for the great report and I am glad that its now sorted.
            Keep in touch,
            All the best
            Steve

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Different Martin responding.

    If black death you would normally get the exhaust type smell in the cab.
    Lifting the engine covers you should see the black tar developing around the base and upwards of the faulty injector.
    You might consider faulty hydraulic tappets, if someone has put a thicker or cheaper oil in that might cause that. Or indeed if oil has been left far too long.

    I notice you say tick over is 900, 700 is usual. Could the ECU be over fuelling as well?
    You faulty injector theory sounds reasonable though.

    • From martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

      tick over is below 900, going to get it to Mercedes specialist tomorrow and get them to diagnose and give me the bad news then… Just don’t want to be ripped off for something that won’t cure the fault as happening in many garages, miss diagnostics an charge for work…..

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        From Steve Ball on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

        Martin,
        Filling with a higher Cetane rated fuel like BP ultimate (like higher octane) usually has some effect if the problem is directly fuel related, ie injectors, or diesel knock, in other words the noise would normally be expected to be less. This is a good old simple test to see if the problem could be pinpointed as fuel related or mechanical. Obviously if there is a mechanical knock – tappet, little end, rod etc it would not generally ‘go away’ or alter when changing to a higher Cetane rated fuel.

        What is the fuel economy like? mid 30’s?

        A Leak off test would also give you a ‘quick and dirty’ indication of injector condition. Just suitable plastic tubing, cut and placed over the fuel return lines on each injector, pull off the cam sensor and crank the engine for the designated period. The level of diesel in each of the tubes indicates overall leak-off and gives an insight into the condition of the injectors.
        (Martin no.1 🙂 ) – My view is that you would be more likely to notice a tappet noise louder and heavier at idle than when under load at higher engine rpms.
        Regards,
        Steve

        • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

          Good point on the tappets Steve.

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Driven it today took it for a good run an the noise is worsening, I’ve also noticed there is now a puff of black smoke at lie revs when static, I’m becoming more worried it maybe Black Death!

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Thanks steve ill do this tomorrow and go for a good run, the noise is quite excessive though, I wouldn’t think its general shitty fuel as it has occurred from when I bought the van at first I assumed it was a cracked manifold but no joy after checking, I drove the van from London to Manchester so a full tank and the noise has worsened. I was going to try Lucas additive in the oil incase it was the Tapp, I’m also going to try and fill over the injectors with wd40 tomorrow and just ensure there is no leaks.
    Checking is cheaper than wrong fixing…. And I don’t like to be beat!
    As I said its baffling

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Thanks for the response steve much appreciated, funny you mention the break that is a bit spongy, they work but bit soft thought this was just the norm.
    How do I check the servo/vac pump, do I have it running as the noise only really kicks in when being driven? I’m pretty lost with it all to be honest, I’m not to bad with a bag of spinners an some wd40 but I pretty much need it in lea-mans terms to put my hands to the graft! Sorry for being a pain….
    Cheers.
    Martin.

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

      Hi Martin,
      Not a problem. The pump will usually make a similar noise at idle too, though much less. when you press the brake the noise should disappear. Get someone to press the brake in the cab while you use your ears under the bonnet. The MB brakes are like that through the model range, sprinters will drop the pedal to the floor if you stand on it hard and just keep pressure on, almost like creep. Its the nature of the beast and does not effect brake force. It is designed like this to give a progressive feel – apparently!.
      Regards
      Steve

      • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

        Hi steve again thanks, there is no noise at idle, or reving from static…only when I’m driving will it occur, when driving with clutch in and revs on it occurs also, but not at 900rpm (static).
        Hope this helps… Maybe tappits but there is no noise difference from cold or warm once driving?

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          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

          Hi Martin,
          Just to help establish whether it is abnormal diesel knock due to any would-be fuelling issues, try a fill of BP Ultimate diesel or use a Cetane diesel octane booster and see if the knock is less. If so it more or less eliminates any mechanical problems, piston slap, valve train etc. That’s a cheap first place to start.
          All the best
          Steve

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    Hope I’m in the right place, great to read through the posts as it seems all mechanics are quite good at guessing…
    I currently have a vito 111 xlw 2.2cdi manual 54 reg.
    Having issues with a knocking/diesel tapping nosie, but only seems to appear once under load, I’ve been told all sorts of rubbish from different people, but after I’ve had a few good runs out I personally think it’s injector problem, I only bought the van 3-4 months ago it’s got lots of history of new clutch, recon gear box fly wheel, services etc…. Amongst the pile I have a receipt for overhaul injectors new seals and bolts in October 13, less than 10,000 miles ago, could this still be the problem is basically my question or should I be looking elsewhere?
    Any help or basic checks I can do would be much appreciated…..
    Also I’ve had it scanned and nothing showed up apart from glow plugs I’ve replaced these.

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

      HI Martin,
      I would first see if the vac pump is noisy as this is a common problem. Pressing the brake pedal and taking some vac load from the pump to the servo will immediately stop the noise if it is connected to the vac pump itself. It is unlikely the injectors are problematic if they were serviced recently and correctly, all at the same time. There has been some reported increase in engine note (tapping noise) when the EGR is partially open under load, usually this is when under the warm up cycle, obviously when it occurs at other times the valve is sticking and not closing properly. There was a 2007/8 recall on premature EGR failure and many were swapped under warranty. Any MB dealer will tell you if your van was rectified under recall.

      If the EGR was sticking open though, normally I would expect an engine warning lamp, power loss and some black smoke produced from the exhaust under load when it was making the noise, but not in every combination of circumstances.

      It is possible to test the injectors in situ in a very basic way by conducting a leak off test. This is well documented on the web for the sprinter vans (same engine) and there is little point in me repeating what is already available elsewhere.
      I would also try and eliminate any possibility that there a slightly worn con rod little end, you should be able to reproduce this noise by carefully revving the engine and listening at the point of overrun once you toe off the power.
      Hope that helps a little.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From ABOULAYE Zoulk. on Mercedes Sprinter Radio Code Decoder

    Thanks you a lot. All the best. Zoulk.

  • From Martin on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    You may be right, but at 295k miles that mine has we shall see over the coming years

  • From Beverley on Mercedes Diesel Injector Advice - Sprinter and others

    They do warrant the work. But that doesent help really. I want a van that gets me to my destination. MB won’t replace or buy back because of the age and mileage. So I must conclude that a MB diesel engine has come to the end of it’s useful life at 30000 miles and two and a half years old !!!

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