Comments and help given

 
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  • From vitaliy on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    HI MY FATHER RECENTLY BOUGHT A EX FEDEX SPRINTER HOWEVER FEDEX DID NOT ORDER THEM WITH RADIOS SO I WENT ONLINE AND BOUGHT A OEM HA111 111 RADIO, MY PLAN WAS TO BUY A PLUG WHICH I DID AND MAKE MY OWN HARNESS, HOWEVER AS SOON AS I PUT 12V TO IT IT WORKS BUT AFTER 10 SEC GOES TO PROD, AM I OUT OF LUCK WITH A OEM STEREO? I WANTED TO KEEP IT AS OEM LOOKING AS POSSIBLE. SINCE THE DASH DOESNT EVEN HAVE A HARNESS FOR A RADIO I CAN EVEN BRING IT IN TO MB.

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

      Hi there,
      Its unusual that there is no existing loom there for a radio even though no head unit is fitted, but I suppose anything is possible with special order vehicles. You will have read the HA1111 is linked to the CAN and in turn needs to be connected to its native vehicle to function without the PROD error. If you had purchased a decoded radio (one with this feature removed or disabled) then it will function in any vehicle without the CAN connection. Indeed it will work perfectly with just simple power connection and speakers. I would be looking to get the radio you have purchased to a car audio specialist and have it decoded (remove the PROD feature) to work in any vehicle. It may be almost as cheap to but an already decoded radio from Ebay than get yours done but the choice is yours. Good luck.
      All the Best
      Steve

  • From zac on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    Hi steve
    no luck really maybe a bit better, must be internal because when the engine is not running i can get 1st and reverse fine.

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      From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

      Hi Zac,
      I have been reading some input regarding the C220 manual gearbox and related 2nd gear issues. Have a read here: Obviously its clutching at straws a little but you may wish to check out the route of dropping the oil level in the gearbox to 10-15mm below the filler – it has been reported that this can return some benefit. Have a read see what you think (I always adopt a cautionary open minded approach to information read in user group posts, however ‘reading in-between the lines’ it does seem to hold some water) One interesting point is the number of 2nd gear synchro’s reported being sold by MB for this type of gearbox!
      Let me know if you have any success.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From zac on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

    Hi
    I have had the same problem on my c220 I’ve just got
    will do a oil change this afternoon, fingers crossed

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      From Steve Ball on Poor First Gear Selection - Manual Gearbox Problem W639 Vito - Cure

      Hi Zac,
      Good luck with the oil, I have had another reader of Gen-In try it on a C180 (Iffy 22nd of December) If your C220 is a pre-04 model then the gear selection is by cable and these could need adjustment. If its post-04 then a redesigned mechanism operated directly into the gearbox without any adjustment, although wear to the plastic ball at the base of the selector lever has been reported to give problems with gear selection. Maybe worth a look!
      Please report back and let me know how you get on.
      Best regards
      Steve

  • From Fredrik on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    I cant get it to work. I Think that we are going to the MB servicepoint and connect the car to a computer to make it work.

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

      Hi Fredrik,
      Sorry to hear you have had limited success finding the audio output. Perhaps you could report back your findings from MB when you have them it would be most useful.
      Many thanks, all the best.
      Steve

  • From Ian Hemingway on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

    Hi Steve
    Very interesting information here.
    I currently have a 3.0 v6 vito 2007 in at the moment with this fault.
    The turbo is the one with electric actuator. Which moves freely and I can activate it with the Diagnostic tool.

    It has faulted the air flow meter (But its fine)

    The boost air temp sensor was faulty and always read 80c its been replaced
    The MAP sensor works correctly but live data shows the boost pressure at 0.8 bar all the time.

    I even plugged another MAP sensor in and pressurised and vaccumed it but the live data remained the same at 0.8 bar.

    I’ve checked the wiring back to the ECU from the MAP sensor.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks
    Ian

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      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Ian,
      I am thinking that the 0.8bar live data you are reading may be the default value plopped in by the ECU when it failsafes due to another control/sensor input error. You would kind of expect appx 2.5v as an ECU default value (0.8bar, 15 psi-ish) mid scale of a 5 volts sensor range. As a rough guide you should see appx the following back to the ECU actually on the wires from the MAP sensor (Turbo boostpipe pressure) and at least see its value varing upward in voltage as boost is applied – even if you have to manually move the VVT turbo actuator lever with engine reving :

      29.01psi 4.90V
      28.70psi 4.84V
      27.70psi 4.67V
      26.70psi 4.50V
      25.70psi 4.33V
      23.70psi 3.99V
      22.70psi 3.82V
      20.70psi 3.47V
      18.70psi 3.13V
      16.70psi 2.79V
      14.70psi 2.45V (normal air pressure – engine not running)

      If you use some pins into the insulation of the MAP wiring you should be able to prove the sensor with a test meter and see what you are getting. Of course the default condition may be caused/triggered by another issue but at least its a start. The same can be said for any of the other sensors, you need to test what is happening at the sensor and not always rely on the result as seen and read from the ECU via livedata, it will mostly put its own default figures in under some conditions! Do you have a EDC light up on the console? It may be worth having a look at the inlet air temp sensor pre turbo and see what that is giving as this is all rolled in the calculation along with the MAP etc.

      A real off the wall idea here – is the EGR stuck open? Allowing all or most of the boost to escape atmosphere, the rotating type of EGR valve can get gummed up and in one case I have seen the shaft break, so even though the rotation is taking place visibly from the outside the inside is stationary – becuause the shaft is bust. There was a recall 2008 for the EGR and MB replaced a number of units in some model ranges due to mechanical defects. May be worth ringing the dealer and seeing if the mod was done, it will show on the reg with MB as it it was an official ‘FREE’ recall (like the spare wheel carrier mechanism breaking off!!- another recall of the period)

      You have a bit to go on there and please do report back. I have found on so many occasions that the codes thrown and readings taken are often as a result of and not always the root cause of an ECU limp home issue. Just out of curiosity what are you reading/clearing codes with this may or may not apply to you but worth the read – http://www.benzworld.org/forums/v-class/1686500-vito-120cdi-no-power-fault-code.html

      All the best Steve

  • From Bill hanily on Unusual Intermittent Electrical Power Problems Mercedes Sprinter

    Hi steve
    Thanks for your help will check all those points. Put it on the computer again did not show any codes at all ,but was playing with the light switch and had moter running at 1800 revs when I turned the lights on revs dropped to 600/700 revs. I did not alter the revs turned the lights off and it went back to 1800 revs . My auto elec thinks this might be the problem. What do you think
    Regards Bill

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      From Steve Ball on Unusual Intermittent Electrical Power Problems Mercedes Sprinter

      Hi Bill,
      That does sound strange and could be a problem with the fuse board power distribution connections under the steering wheel?. Have a look here: http://www.mercedes.gen.in/WP35/unsual-intermittent-power-problems-mercedes-sprinter/ costs nothing to take a quick look and have a check out of the connections and power distribution.
      All the best
      Steve

  • From Fredrik on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    Now we have Power to the amplifier but we dont have signal from the sound 5 . Do we need to reprogramme the stereo?

  • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

    This is brilliant thanks, I’ve just replaced the vacuum solenoid on my ’04 311cdi trying to cure a cutting out problem (accompanied by a loud knocking/rattle and clouds of smoke) codes were P1470 charge pressure negative control – charge pressure low alomg with P0201/2/3/4 high current common wire.

    It’s cured the cutting out and now just occasionally goes into limp so next job is to check-out the wiring to the vac’ solenoid.

    I found reference to a repair section of wiring on a parts list published on a Russian website (genuine mercedes part) but now can’t find my way back to it, looks like I’ll have to cut & splice?

    BTW, something is blocking me saving this site to favourites, nothing happens when I right-click.

    Thanks

    Max

    • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Steve, back again.

      She finally failed to start today after another heavy downpour (there’s a theme developing here), Snap-on code reader is comiing up with P1190 fuel pressure control valve open circuit.

      A few questions – is this the one under the vac’ pump on the front of the head and would partial failure (before todays complete fail) give me the 3000rpm limp home symptoms? It’s hard to tell the condition of the wiring but it certainly doesn’t look as bad as the boost control solenoid was prior to rewire, is this a known wiring fault?

      Thanks once again for all your help, keeping white van man moving, when we’ve both got more time I’d like to discuss tuning chips with you, specifically taking my 311 up to 130ish BHP.

      Cheers.

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        From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Hi Max,
        There are three pressure devices, one on the LP supply in a Tee on the fuel rail under the inlet manifold towards the front, another on the HP pump, rather like an elongated tower that mounts to the triangular shaped pump with the connector pointing to the inlet manifold side of the engine (Connector is a sod to get on off, but will just make it) finally the HP fuel rail pressure regulator valve, this is the one you are saying is on the fuel rail itself hidden in that small gap under the inlet manifold by the fuel filter canister.

        As all things seem to happen when its raining, just make sure there is no water running down the loom from the grommet in the bulkhead where the ECU lives by the bonnet release as it can wet the connectors on the ECU ports.

        Keep in touch and let me know progress as these things are rarely straightforward.
        All the best
        Steve

        • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          The ECU was one of the 1st things I checked, all the terminals were bone dry so eliminated that. Got my new pressure control valve fitted it with new seals and… not a peep.

          funny thing is, as soon as I switch the ignition on the temperature gauge goes full scale so I suspect a short in the wiring some where, it would be too easy if somehow the red/white supply for the fuel valve had chafed into the temperature sender circuit, off to try and trace it now 🙁

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            That’ll be the broken temperture probe, I haven’t got round to replacing it yet, strange that it’s taken 6 weeks to notice, and it’s back down to normal again today?

            Thanks .

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Here’s a new one Steve, in my ownership (around 40k miles) the van has always ticked over at 750-800rpm, today it’s gone up to 1000rpm, is this like a petrol engine and I’m looking for an air leak on the inlet side somewhere?

            Cheers

            Max

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Max,
            Nope, nothing like a petrol, take the turbo hose off and it will still idle at the norm! More likely to be throttle potentiometer (pedal assembly) or water/coolant temperature sensor fault (engine thinks it needs cold state enrichment and idle-up) The ECU sets idle speed, so it can only be an external control signal that is influencing the change.

            MY 2011 ish and a rise in idle could be the DPF doing its ‘cycle’ – if so idle will return to normal once regenerated.

            All the best
            Steve

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Well Steve, I’d love to be able to say it was dodgy wiring but no, the fault was with the fuel pressure sensor, new one fitted and she’s running A1, one thing I’m dubious of though is the sealing washer/O ring, the old sensor didn’t have one, it was sealed in with clear fish tank sealant and the new one came with a choice of steel crush washers, I had to use both to get a seal as the sensor bottomed out on the threads before either singularly got a grip, my local VAG dealer will have the correct seal tomorrow.

            Next job – remove the thermostat housing to change the temperature probe I snapped, can’t get a grip to pull it out.

            One more question – what to do about duff glow plugs, do I just pull a relay/fuse and forget? The garage who do my code reading have given me dire warnings about killing batteries/starter motors.

            Thanks again

            Max

          • Avatar photo

            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Result!
            Pleased that its sorted Max.
            I have never known a thermostat sensor come out yet ! if you manage it you deserve a prize. I always fit a new Febi stat housing complete with sensor and new O ring (All in the kit) for about £35.00 from GT Auto-factors. Its a tight fit to remove once the bolts are removed, made a great deal easier if you remove the oil filter bowl, just cover the open filter with a rag or stretch a rubber glove over it to stop crud falling in. Don’t pinch the wiring loom by the fuel filter when you reassemble.

            If you look at the glow control module, under the battery tray area you will be able to identify a thick supply wire going to the unit, right above to the ESPAR auxiliary heater, remove this and tape it up. Forget it, never fitted glow plugs in the UK and the fleet I service has not a single vehicle running with glows without an issue. You invite more trouble than enough trying to remove them and if stuck will cost you a head job if they break off. If you remove the control module plug you will flag a communications fault with the ECU so just remove the battery supply for the glow plug power.

            Have fun Steve

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Got her to the garage today for a code read, I’ve still got P1190 control valve open circuit but I think that’s being caused by P0190 – Bank 4-6 rail pressure sensor signal voltage too high.

            Gonna look for a short between the fuel pressure sensor circuit and the engine temperature circuit that’s possibly what’s causing the fuelling problem and causing my temp gauge to flicker between zero and full scale, fingers crossed it’s not the sensor, that’ll be another £200!

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Glad you at least got it to a garage, and it ran of a sorts. It seems there are still some electrical gremlins to sort out. I too have been working over Xmas and its not pleasant outside. I did a timing belt on a Crafter CR35 2.5TDI and a full service – was dresses up like an Eskimo!
            Let me know how you get on.
            PS. I don’t have any comparison information for metered readings of what is good or bad regarding sensors so cant really help there, sorry.

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Well the good news is she started today, don’t know if it’s anything to do with what I’ve done? The engine is knocking a bit & smoking under load and the throttle response doesn’t seem to bear any relation to what my right foot is doing but she runs (edc light still on all the time) so I can get her to the garage and have the codes read, I know one will be a temperature sensor fault!

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            One minor success today correcting damage I’d caused (deformed the terminals in the pressure control valve connector block forcing in my meter probes, the male-female terminals weren’t connecting), now when I crank the engine over I get an occasional stutter as though it’s going to start.

            The temperature gauge is still flickering around and managed to snap the terminals off the probe when disconnecting (will the engine run without a temp probe connection?) , battery now on charge and my finger tips are blue so try again tomorrow.

            A quick question, is there any way of confirming the various probes/sensors are functional without substitution ie by measuring resistance or confirming continuity across terminals otherwise I could potentially spend a fortune buying new components i don’t necessarily need?

            Thanks again

            Max

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Thanks Steve, I’ll give that area some attention between rain showers, I’ll throw another fuel filter on it just in case although the one fitted is only around 5-6000 miles old.

            I spent half of yesterday looking for a valve that isn’t fitted on my van, the fuel shut-off under the vac pump isn’t there, no wiring for it from the ECU so that’s one problem I haven’t got? I’ve just worked out (I think) why there are 2 fuel pressure sensors, one on the front of the rail signals the control valve to open/close maintaing correct rail pressure and the one under the manifold signals insufficient pressure and shuts things down?

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Max, if you have a non start situation then it could also be either of the following: Camshaft sensor or wiring, crankshaft sensor or wiring, any of the injector connections or wiring. Any failures of the above will prevent the engine starting. Correct on the sensors, under the manifold is low pressure supply sensor/switch.
            Regards Steve

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Max, the main problem area for loom faults is where it dips down from the head, under the inlet manifold down past the engine mount. This bunch gives by far the most issues, cut it open and inspect it. The temp sender, fuel filter water sensor, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pump pressure sensor all run in the same part of the loom at the front of the engine. You can see where they split under the fuel filter and go to their respective positions.
            Regards
            Steve

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            No joy yet, it’s now pitch black and freezing so try again tomorrow, one thought, should the engine start with the top off the inlet manifold or does that mess up some inlet air pressure sensor?

            Thanks

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Max,
            Not the time of year for messing outside is it. Least the nights should start getting lighter now all be it slowly! I reckon it will at least start but don’t expect it to rev freely, it should idle at least of sorts.
            Regards and happy Christmas,
            Steve

      • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Forget the bit about it being under the vac pump, it’s on the back of the fuel rail isn’t it? Is there any way the valve can be tested or any checks I can do to the wiring ie testing for a voltage at the terminals before the valve is condemned?

        Thanks again.

        • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          Did a bit of playing today while waiting for the new valve to arrive, I’ve got continuity from the red/white wire at the plug back to the ECU with a pretty low resistance as well and the black/white wire earths to the battery negative just fine. With my meter connected across the valve terminals I’m getting continuity and about 3.5 ohms resistance but that’s with the valve at rest, who knows what it’s like with fuel pressure acting against it?

          Max

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

      Hi Max,
      Thanks for the good comments. Sounds like you are on top of it now.
      The wiring loom at the front is quite simple to splice into as there is only a couple of wires to trace back through, so I would go for that option. The Gen In site pages are deactivated against right click to make it a little less simple to copy photographs/content etc. I am sure the favourites – ‘add to list’ will still work if launched as part of your browser favourites function.
      Let me know how you get on with the Sprinter.
      All the best.
      Steve

      • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

        Rather than splitting the existing harness (not a lot of room for red crimps & heat shrink), I’m looking into using OEM parts and do a proper job. The parts list is a little difficult to decipher but I think I can order a new plug & terminals for the solenoid end and terminals & plastic holders(?) for the ECU end (looks like the terminals &holders slide out of the multi pin plug at the ECU?). It’s going to be difficult to get the new wires through the bulkhead grommet, what do you reckon?

        Max

        • Avatar photo

          From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

          Hi Max.
          I take it you have seen/measured a fault in the wiring continuity between the ECU and Solenoid? What I would consider doing is splicing in to the loom just on the engine side of the bulkhead grommet, where access is easy. If you cut here you can measure and prove all is well back to the ECU from this point, and run your cable to the solenoid easily within the engine bay. The problem area with the existing cable will most likely be where it hooks round the rad/intercooler, so splicing in here should be a good compromise. I would use solder and heat-shrink the joins, maybe even use self-amalgamating tape, like you say crimps are not the boys for this job! If you do need to get into the ECU area in the cab from the engine bay the best way to do this is puncture the grommet towards its middle near the central core of wires with a bradawl or terminal screwdriver, push your wires through a tightly made puncture hole and they will be almost self sealing through the grommet. You are correct in that the ECU plugs have a slide out connector inner within the latch assembly. Hope this helps.
          All the best
          Steve

          • From 650max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Here we are again, right back at square 1

            I rewired the boost control valve weeks ago and things have been fine since then, until another really heavy downpour on Saturday and she’s back to cutting out again, EDC warning light is on constantly and power is down.

            I’ve done all the usual checks, cleaned & GT85’d every terminal block I can find to no effect so will have a go tomorrow following your diagnostic guide above. Is there any particular point that is prone to water ingress I should concentrate on? (the ECU is fine, bone dry).

            On a slightly different topic, I cleaned & lubricated the brake bias valve linkage & actuator today but can’t figure out how it’s supposed to work, the short spring holds the actuator in the “closed” position, it appears to me that the linkage off the shocker mount tries to pull it even more “closed” , can you advise?

            Thanks yet again.

            Max

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            From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            Hi Max,
            You seem to have covered most everything. I take it you replaced the loom section by the passenger headlight as it rounds the intercooler? (this is where the loom rubs/fractures commonly) It is possible that it is unconnected to water ingress. A stab in the dark would be either Camshaft or Crank sensor – this may or may not be associated with poor starting. I have had similar issues with low pressure fuel delivery and a filter change has cured this. As always you are better to invest in a read of the fault codes and save all the guess work.

            The brake load sensing proportioning valve is in simple terms a sliding piston in a housing bolted to the chassis, this piston varies fluid passage ‘orifices’ dependant on its position – ie. how far the piston is allowed to extend under braking pressure. The arm and spring mechanism bares on the piston head to control the pressure required to force the piston out under braking and thus the amount of brake force applied to the rear wheels (by regulating brake fluid flow through the orifices) with regard to van loading. Allowed to extend outward, the braking force to the rear wheels is reduced to a minimum, fully retained inward the transmitted brake force will be at maximum. Have a read here: http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21459
            Hope this helps.
            Regards Steve

          • From Max on Mercedes Sprinter Turbo - Limp Home - Diagnosis and Fault Finding

            The boost control went ape again the other day after a heavy downpour so I think it must be moisture getting into the harness somewhere, once everything had dried out and I’d sprayed the harness & connectors with GT85 she’s fine again.

            I’ll give soldering a go, just need an assistant to hold the wires as I never seem to have enough hands [one for the iron – one for the solder etc :)] .

  • From Fredrik on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    We dont have the AMP Output in the testmode but we will test with pin 6 yellow. After testing we will be back with information

  • From Fredrik on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

    Hello. We did like you wrote obove and we got the aux connector to work. Now we want to install a subwoofer in our Vito with sound 5 but we are having problems with the remote. We cant get Power out from the connector to the amplifier. Ground and Power is ok from the battery but the radio will not give the signal to the amp to start?
    Anyone that have a solution to this?

    • Avatar photo

      From Steve Ball on Mercedes Sound 5 Auxillary Audio Input Modification

      Hi Fredrik,
      I would look to utilise the amp power connection (usually pin 6 yellow plug also used for amp and CD changer power) dependant on wiring configuration you could trace the wire that normally powers the radio antenna preamp and tap into that for switched power control when radio is on. Does the ‘amp output’ mode in the test selection menu allow the function of the power signal?. Having not used this or measured it I cannot say for sure, may be worth a go. Good luck.
      Best Regards
      Steve