Hi Graham,
Correct!, as I mentioned in the text it does need a simple modification (a slot) in the door housing. I did mine with a pair of wire cutters and then pliers to break out a small square section. It was simple to do and actually quite neat, once this was done it simply fitted perfectly in the position furthest from the door hinge.
Obviously I did not go into great detail with this, as if people were reading this in Europe/USA outside of the UK then the rear door configuration could be different and actually correct fitment for the part as supplied. Glad you found the post useful.
All the best
Steve

Hi Nick,
Thanks for the update. Glad the smoke/power issue has gone – at least some compensation for the expenditure on the new turbo, well worth It!
Before trying anything else, run your tank as low as you dare, fill half up with BP Ultimate Diesel and then add a Cetane booster (Like an octane booster for petrol but for diesel) This one is a good one. Don’t bother with the Redex branded booster as it only specs a Max Cetane boost of 2, the Millers specs a 5. Let it run for a few miles and see if that cures the pinking noise. Some diesels seem to favour better performance diesel fuel than the ‘Supermarket Stuff’ If its no different then begin to look at the components that control the injection timing. You have new/recon injectors so they are out. Cam sensor and Crank Position Sensor are the only other links in the chain. Almost every van I have seen over 10 years old has no working glow plugs! They all start and run fine – ask any courier company with the older model sprinters. So discount this and not worth the risk of replacing/fixing. The intake air temperature sensor is in the intake tract and would flag a code if faulty. I bet you are running your 616 on low quality diesel. (just a guess – don’t shoot me down!) Try the Cetane booster and monitor the effect. You are getting there !!
All the best
Steve

Hi Tom,
Glad you found it informative reading.
I must admit I don’t know the answer to your question regarding the low level audio output. Having assumed, like you, that as the pins were there and the radio option available in the menu, I do kind of find it strange that it does not give at least RCA audio level outputs. Did you try these pin outs for the yellow connector?: http://www.mercedes.gen.in/WP35/other-stuff/mercedes-audio-iso-wiring-connections/

There is reference to an upgrade speaker system for the Vito and you would imagine you could specify it for either radio head unit. At least that’s how I understand the text. http://www.mercedes-benz.com.kw/content/kuwait/mpc/mpc_kuwait_website/en/home_mpc/van/home/new_vans/models/mpvs/viano_639/overview/comfort.0004.html

This mentions an amplifier mounted under the front seat and extra speakers I assumed upgrade available for all head options.

I will have to dig out my spare set and fire it up and see what happens. Meantime if you get anywhere before I do please let me know your findings.

All the best Steve.

Hi Nick,

That’s quite a rare beast you have there! What you describe are classic EGR valve symptoms, but I am unsure if that model has EGR fitted. I am sure your Tech guy will have the info if he hasn’t checked this already.

I wonder if you have read any codes using Star? I assume there is no EDC lamp on the dash.

In addition to the bits and pieces to check listed in the main post, the noise could be related to a timing issue and if no codes I would swap out the knock sensor at the back of the head/block, (again not sure if this model will have this sensor not sure what year it was introduced) this detects the pre detonation noise and adjusts the CDI injector timing to compensate – could be that. I would possibly have expected a light and a code to be thrown though, but who knows.

It may be worth looking at the intercooler (inside it) and looking to see if its restricted or blocked or as I have found on some high milers half-full of oil, especially if its had had a turbo blow in its lifetime! Its quite an easy task to take this off if you don’t have AC, so wont take you much time to test/look. I would only suspect this if the problem is there all the time and not intermittent.

Black smoke means too much fuel or not enough air – also pointing to an EGR valve issue that when faulty causes smoke, poor performance and pinging noises (if you have one fitted!).

Its worth pulling the ECU from under the dash and removing the connectors, some times the bulkhead grommet allows water in to run down the loom into the connectors causing corrosion/bad connections. Remove the loom plugs and have a look at the pins of the ECU and clean off any corrosion/green that you find.

Your tech should be able to test the boost pressure by measuring the voltage on the boost pressure sensor (pins pushed into the wires) or read the pressure directly from a OBD scanner/STAR reader and so prove that the Turbo is OK and producing boost in the allowable range. Double check the turbo pipework/hoses and look for leaks – especially in the pipes that join the intercooler. Oily mess deposits around hose clips or joints usually indicate boost leaks. Make sure the intercooler hasn’t taken a stone hit and is leaking, again some dark oil staining will usually indicate a problem. Inspect the inlet manifold and its seals/gaskets, especially the plastic blanking plate/end cover at the back (bulkhead end on 4 cyl model, though I think yours is a 5 cyl) that often pushes its O ring out if the van has ever backfired.

Try those few things these don’t entail much cost and if the fault persists rely on your guy with the code reader !

Let me know how you get on.
All the best
Steve

Hi there Martin,
I would imagine the same procedure as the one in the 2008 model. You will first need to remove the clip-on plastic trim that surrounds the perimeter of the radio, carefully lever this off using a trim puller or thin plastic spatula. Once this is removed the fixing screws are visible and everything there on in is straight forward. See here this describes how to remove the radio to get to the heater control etc.

Best Regards
Steve

Hi Ali,

Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it of use. The wiring colours for the rear light cluster on the W639 Vito can be found here, just pick up on the reverse light circuit and take that as your camera feed (White/Blue Wire). Obviously it only becomes live when reverse is selected. You can use an in-line fuse holder to protect the reverse circuit should the camera have a problem, this can all lie in the rear door behind the panel card.

All the best
Steve

Hi there,

This ATF is supplied in the UK through GSF Ltd, If you look here you will be able to find your local store.

I would imagine your C class is a face-lift model and if this is the case the manual transmission selector mechanism 04-on was modified and no adjustment is needed. However you might just check the mechanism (ball and socket) for wear beneath the gear stick. Selector system post face-lift 04-on. It seems strange that 1st and Reverse are difficult to engage as they both lie at the far upper left of the gate. Maybe there is some problem here with the selector mechanism and the issue does not lie internally to the gearbox. Well worth a look.

All the best
Steve.

Hi Howard,
Thanks for kind words, I am glad it helped you out with the LHM issue and you managed to fix it yourself!
I may one day even take you up on the offer of that beer !
All the best
Steve

Hi Peter,
I have had a quick look and this oil (Super-S SuperSyn) meets the ATF-U Spec and should be available in NZ. Link – Click Here
All the best
Steve