I am from South Africa. I solved a similar 2nd gear problem by using fully synthetic gear oil manufactured by Castrol, called BOT402. It is thinner than normal gear oil
Regards
Danie

Hi Jan, a little over 1.5l as I remember so 2 bottles will do it with a little for the garage shelf!

Hi Alex, It all depends how bad it is, do you have it? Have you looked for the obvious signs? I think from what you describe your van is in Limp Home mode and the turbo disabled. I would first check or replace the brake pedal switch as this has this exact effect and its a cheap start! You really need to get a code read from a good independent MB dealer or else you run the risk of just buying parts and wasting money until you find the faulty one. £40 now to tell you where the fault lies will save you hundreds in the long run. Change the switch first though these are a really common failure.
All the best
Steve

41213 should unlock the radio for you Vera.
Best regards
Steve

Hi Lennard,
I would have a look at the wiring to the camshaft sensor at the back of the head rocker cover (LHS looking into the engine) this can be damaged/cut/crushed when they remove the injectors. You will see it runs in the same loom section as the injector wiring. All the injector cables will be OK as if only one is not connected the van just will not run. Do you have an EDC fault light? If not chances are you have a induction leak. Check the main long turbo pipe at the front that joins at the manifold, especially underneath where it commonly splits right where you cannot see it! Look for any oil staining around the hose connections to the intercooler, oil staining indicates a boost leak.

An outside chance is that when its been in for work one of the mechanics has caught his boot on the brake light switch above the pedal. Do you have brake lights? The switch is a dual contact arrangement, one side deals with illuminating the brake lights, the other signals the ECU that you are braking. If the ECU side of the switch goes faulty or is damaged (Common problem and a $30 fix – replace switch) then this will cause power loss as you describe and NO fault light. Also check the rear light clusters for corrosion especially the brake/side light bulbs as this too is a connected and common problem. Really you would do with getting a code read from an independent MB workshop, this will tell you if any codes are registered and will give a clue where to look.

All the best
Steve

Hi Jason,
Oil in the intake tract is in some respects normal in Sprinter engines, its almost by design. What is concerning however is that the breather pipe is routed forward of the turbo on the inlet pipe, in other words blow by gasses and crankcase fumes are drawn in through the turbo itself and forced into the inlet manifold onward to the cylinders. If you say this is clean and free from any oil deposits then where is the intake oil from? While it would be good to assume sensors I would firstly check all induction turbo hose connections thoroughly from the turbo through the intercooler and to the manifold. Any leaks will be indicated with black oil staining. If its a US model look for cracks in the turbo resonator (if fitted to this model – sorry but my familiarity with US models is poor as I am in the UK) You really need to get a code read from a good independant MB repair shop – this will give you a clue where the fault lies.

Back to my original point of no oil deposits at the intake to the turbo may suggest that the turbo seals are passing oil on the inlet side, indicating the start of possible turbo pressure issues (low charge pressure) Does the engine smoke on the inclines? If you have white smoke oil is getting into the mix (worn engine or turbo), if black smoke then too much diesel and not enough air charge (Worn turbo mechanical parts or engine electrical controls/sensor etc.) If you pull the inlet to the turbo with the engine off and spin the turbo does it spin smoothly? does it catch or snag?, is there a lot of up down play in the spindle? (some play is acceptable) This turbo spools at an amazing 135,000 rpm so you can see how the slightest issue here can cause a significant boost pressure drop causing limp home. Either way you need a code read as a starting point, a fix for this this problem could range from a few dollars to a couple of thousand so you need to be sure… cheap things first though!

Let me know how you get on.

All the best
Steve

21166 is the listed code Tamas
Regards
Steve

Hi Neil,
If the radio is made by Becker than no problem (most are of this model) I just need the complete serial number from the side of the radio.
Happy New Year
Steve

Hi Shawn,

The copper washer is a ‘crush’ deformable washer that makes a seal between the steel injector body and the aluminium head. This must be replaced with new each time the injector is removed. If it still leaks after a new washer is fitted then there is a chance the seat of the hole is scored, either by the cutting action of escaping combustion gasses etc. This must be refaced or recut to afford a perfect seal.

I hope this helps,
All the best Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the quick reply! Ill have a look at the non return valve.

The oil around the intake was more of a drip and when I removed the hose I found oil inside(small pool) and oily residue all through the intake hoses.

When I took off the hose that runs from the rocker cover to the turbo inlet hose I could see quite a bit of fumes coming through while running, its either crankcase pressure or EGR ? Do you know what the sensor is for that is connected to that hose? ( small 3/4 inch hose that pushes into the intake hose between filter box and turbo.)

Appreciate the help

Hi Mike,
I would say the charge pressure sensor has been damaged/faulty or its wiring plug or loom section. Its worth looking to check the MAF has been reconnected on the intake (I am unsure if this model has one but think so) Trace back any steps done while replacing the manifolds and double check and check again all connectors and loom.
Let me know how you get on.
Cheers Steve